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Very helpful...Nice!! VTF |
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| Posted by |
Jodecy on December 12, 2004 at 7:18 PM |
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This message has been viewed 1083 times. |
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| In Reply To |
AshsZ-2: Alarm Installation Using OEM TWS Harness > posted by Ash's Z on December 12, 2004 at 06:41 PM |
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:TWS=Theft Warning System
:I took the time over the past few days to install the alarm system into the Z - taking my time with new ideas to make the install as professional, clean, and easy to install/troubleshoot as possible. I decided on disassembling the factory alarm control unit to remove the harness connector to clean up the install. I hate splicing wires - its always one of the first things I consider as the source when any electrical problem arises with a component. Making your connections rock-solid by soldering and shrinkwrapping them or using male/female shunt connectors will eliminate any possibility of having a poor connection from the start, or having one develop over time due to mechanical shock of driving the car around.
:I removed the factory TWS module and opened her up to remove the connector from the board. Unfortunately it does not use a common pin spacing for breadboards found in Radioshack or whatnot, but with a little effort you can get the pins to line up so that you can affix it to a blank PCB. While attaching it to a PCB isn't totally necessary, it helps quite a bit as many of the connections require multiple wires to be attached and a PCB has a nice pre-drilled grid of which you can solder all your wires to and create the interconnects by simply laying the solder in across the common rows.
:It should be apparent why you would want to use this OEM harness, but if not, here you go...
:The OEM TCS harness connects to:
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:- Both of the door switches
: - Hood and Trunk switches
: - All Key-Cylinder tamper switches
: - Theft Warning Horn
: - Starter disable circuit
: - Dome light circuit
: - "Security" lamp in gauge cluster
: - Headlamp circuit
: - 12V+ Continuous (battery)
: - 12V+ Switched (ignition switch)
: - GND (Ground)
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:Although this does not connect you to all circuits you may wish to interface with, it provides a strong foundation for an alarm installation. I am using the Alpine SEC-8063 unit which has door lock/unlock functions, programmable turbo-timer mode, and other auxiliary functions for trunk open and whatnot.
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| I have everything wired in and connected. Here is what my connection looks like:
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Click to enlarge
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:The schematic would likely be most helpful to you so I put one together with a few extras:
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:Not that all OEM connections to sensors and output control are ground based. Example:
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:- Ignition cut only requires pin #4 to go to ground.
: - When a door is opened, pin #6 goes to ground.
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:This is convenient because most of the alarm systems out there are (-)ground based.
:Pin #12, Headlamp and Horn RELAY: This needs to be connected to an intermittent alarm output. Connecting this to a constant output will result in the headlamps and horn just turning on during alarm trip mode. You want these to flash and honk. A good source would be your parking light flash output as most alarm systems turn the parking lights to cycling on/off during alarm disarm/arm/warn/trip mode.
:Also note, some alarm systems come with their own LED to indicate alarm status. Some of these systems are (+) based for the indicator lamp and the alarm supplies a (+) voltage to the LED and you simply ground the other terminal where you mount the LED. If this is the case with your alarm, attaching this line to pin#2 will NOT light up the security lamp. You *could* put a relay here to provide ground to the OEM lamp, but a much better solution to a mechanical relay in this case is a transistor. You can pick up a MPS3904 NPN transistor from radio shack for a buck and wire it in as I show in the diagram. The base pin of the transistor connects to the alarm's (+) LED output and the transistor completes a ground based on the (+) output of the alarm. Although I specified a particular transistor part number, it was only the first transistor I found in my box of stuff when I was doing the wiring - just about any NPN transistor will work in this application. You can see the transistor on the PCboard just to the left of the large yellow wire - very simple to wire in.
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:Most alarm systems have a connection for the parking lights flash for disarm/arm/warn/tripped mode. Unfortunately the OEM alarm system does not have wiring accomodations for this circuit and you will have to run a line over to the passenger kick-panel fuseblock. The wire you need to attach into is the same wire that most people attach their aftermarket a-pillar gauges into. Here is a picture of the wire (It is green with a solid black stripe) Yeah, I know it is spliced, but sometimes this is the best route if you only have a single connection to make.
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:Click to enlarge
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:This pin is (+) based, so in order to flash the lights, you have to send 12V+ to this wire.
:In my '94 shown in the pictures, Nissan apparently installed solenoid actuators for the doorlocks into BOTH doors. My '91 only had this function in the passenger door and its position followed that of the driver's side doorlock. If BOTH of your doorlocks actuate together when you only manually change the passenger side, then you can take advantage of the wiring as shown. If you do not have this feature, you will need to install a linear actuator into the driver's door. These are typically available at the same place you bought your car alarm from.
:Once I did all the homework and got to the task, this was the easiest installation I've ever had with an alarm. My last Z I did not take advantage of the OEM harness and I had wires for days run all over the place in the Z and splices galore. Using the OEM harness makes for short wires to connect where you need them and reduces the hassle and time it takes to install an alarm. Once you have all your connections made, you have a good bit of room in the OEM location to tuck the new alarm system into.
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